Iceland

Recent photographs
from my exhibition held in Esch-sur-Alzette
taken during summer 2002 

 

Shortcut to the photographs from summer 1997 and 1999
 here

New black and white photographs: Ice of Jökullsarlon

How to go to Iceland?

There are many airlines bringing you by plane to Keflavik, the airport located just a few miles west of Reykjavik. But you have also the possibility to take the ferry boat from Europe to the east coast of Iceland. The Feroese company Smyril Line leaves on Saturdays from Hanstholm for Torshavn, Feroe Islands, by midweek you'll have the opportunity to board in Bergen (Norway) or the Shetland Islands, before the Norröna will take you on Thursday morning to Seidisfjördur in Iceland.

Of course, traveling by plane a lot faster, than to have to spoil a entire week for the maritime route. But hiring cars, especially off-road vehicles, is quite expensive. For people staying for more than two weeks it is not a bad solution to bring their own 4x4 car by ship.You have however to be aware that the ocean might be rather stormy...

When to go?

If you want to reach for the central highlands, where you'll find the most extraordinary landscapes, you'll have to wait until early July, as most track remain closed due to snow and mud over springtime. You'll find an every Thursday updated map during early summer, to inform about the opening of the tracks at the address: http://www.vegag.is/faerd/halendi.jpg.

Later than August, there are only very few cars on the tracks before they are close as impassable. In case of any breakdown, you may have to walk for some 50 to 70 miles to find someone to help you. Don't think your handy, unless you're equipped with a satellite phone, will be of any help.

How to visit Iceland?

Just a matter of muscles and money.  Cheapest will be traveling by foot or bicycle. But it's really extremely tiring. You may want to go by bus, and you'll find a rather good network, but, as very often, the timetable is not very convenient. With a normal car you may easily round the island by ring-road N°1. But to go to the central highland you have to consider if you need a car with

4 wheel drive?

We came to Iceland with our Range-Rover and it was really good to have a off-road vehicle. Against the big-foot-jeeps you currently see in Iceland, you already feel in a standard four-wheeler as the driver of a Mini-Morris does in London. But we succeeded in going nearly everywhere, we had planed to go. The only real difficulties for a having off-road car are the wading places of glacier-rivers. Depending upon the weather and the time of the day, they may be extremely deep and the current very powerful. 

Don't underestimate the power of water. A lot of accidents, some with severe casualties, are registered each year. If you are not sure, whether to risk the wading or not, wait for an other vehicle to give you a hand, or, still bet, try to get some information from local people Petrol stations as well as bus drivers will advise.

If the river is to deep to cross, it's always worth to wait until the early morning hours. Some wading places, 25 to 30 inches deep on the evening of a sunny and /or windy day, may be just 5 to 10 inches deep in the morning.

How long do you need to visit Iceland?

Two weeks seem to be an absolute minimum, but there is so much to be seen. We have been there for 7 weeks in 1997 and again in 1999, and there surely are a lot of places where we did not have the time to go.

Where to sleep?

There are, of course hotels. But they are expensive, and often located in urbanized areas. A  bit less expensive are the Edda hotels, the facilities of colleges being opened for the tourists during the summer holidays. Alternatively you may opt for farm holidays. At several locations you'll find also youth hostels or similar facilities. We opted mainly for camping in small tents.

About the weather in Iceland.

During our two holidays we spend only five nights in a house. So the weather surely is not that bad! But maybe we where very lucky, too. A general rule says the weather is best from mid May until mid July, acceptable too for the remaining time of summer. Temperature a fairly constant around 12°C. But fine days with 23°C in the highlands at altitude of 1000 meters are possible, just as well as snow on first week of August in Landmannalaugar.

Very often, you may find different weathers in North and South. If it's raining in the North, may be the South is enjoying some fine days. Of course, it may change within hours. One thing is sure: If you're in the sun, don't leave: You don't know what's the weather around the corner. There may be astonishing changes while you travel only 5 or 10 miles.

Continue to the photographs: click  here